Carnivore Diet

Case III. Thomas Kay, age 24

Admitted an In-Patient, September 29, 1800.

Complains of great thirst, weakness in his loins, and an incessant inclination to make water, which is of a light colour, and very sweet taste. He first discovered the latter quality about four months ago, when being urged by extreme thirst in the night, he drank copiously of his urine, which practice he has since occasionally repeated.

His appetite is generally very voracious, and when he can indulge his inclination, he eats until the stomach is often obliged to disgorge its contents. What he throws up varies in taste and smell ; being sometimes sweet, but more frequently of a pungent acid taste, and odor. The saliva is white and frothy; the mouth peculiarly clammy ; he has a sour taste, and the corners of his lips are covered with fur. The heat in his bowels is frequently distressing, and to use his own expression, "they seem at times burned up." His skin is dry and shriveled, and he seldom perspires.

Pulse 80 ; his figure is lean and gaunt, his complexion sallow, and he has a dejected air. He enjoyed a tolerable state of health till within the last twelve months ; and attributes his present malady to a frequent exposure to wet and cold, and a habit of drinking spirits. He has frequently, when intoxicated, laid out all night in the open fields. His occupations have been various, but of late he has been employed as a laborer to bricklayers. Upon examination, he was found to be afflicted with a painful phimosis. He had never measured the quantity of his urine for any given time, but thinks it must amount to some gallons in 24 hours. This being considered as an undoubted instance of Diabetes Mellitus, under its most aggravated form, an accurate register of the liquid ingesta and egesta, was ordered to be kept, and every material circumstance, connected with the progress, and treatment of the malady, to be carefully noted down. From these documents, the following abridged statement is copied.

September 30th. One pint of urine yielded by evaporation, two ounces and one drachm of a thick sweet syrup, of the colour and consistency of treacle.

In the last twenty-four hours, he has passed thirteen pints of urine, and drank twelve of liquids. The urine is of a whitish colour, sweet to the taste, smells like wort, and exhibits air bubbles on the surface. This decrease in the quantity of urine, compared with what he had usually passed in the same time, he attributed to his being abridged by the nurse(from mistake) in the indulgence of his appetite for liquids.

He was directed to pursue a strict plan of animal diet, consisting of cold fat meat, with beef-tea; and to use daily, one drachm of the nitric acid, diluted with a sufficient quantity of water, as a part of his common beverage. To take five grains of rhubarb, and one of opium, each night.

A remarkable increase in the quantity of urine, and an aggravation of some of the most distressing symptoms, led to an inquiry as to the patient's strict adherence to the plan of animal diet; when it was found, that for three evenings past, he had, by a mistake of the nurse, been indulged in a liberal allowance of bread and cheese for supper, instead of cold meat.

This error was ordered to be rectified, and the greatest attention enjoined, to confine the patient in the future, solely to animal food; medicines and acid drink to be repeated.

October 8-13th.

October 10th - Urine 13 pints, Drink: 12 pints

October 11th - Urine 8 pints, Drink: 9 pints

October 12th - Urine 8 pints, Drink: 9 pints

October 13th - Urine 8 pints, Drink: 9 pints

This diminution in the quantity of urine (as appears from the register) was accompanied with a mitigation of the thirst, internal sense of heat, and stricture of the skin.

He has suffered little disturbance in the night, and finds his strength recruiting, but his urine has not quite acquired its natural smell and taste. Pulse 80, one pound of urine, yielded, by evaporation, one ounce and seven drachms of a thick tenacious extract, not quite so sweet nor so fluid as the last, and less in quantity by one drachm and a half.

As he complained of griping, and soreness of the mouth and gums, from the use of the acid ; he was ordered to be laid aside, and the rest of the plan to be continued.

October 12-20th 

In this interval no material change has occurred; except that on the average, the daily quantity of liquid egesta, rather exceeds that of the liquid ingesta. He has never passed more than eleven pints of urine, nor less than eight in twenty-four hours. On one day, this discharge exceeded, by two pints, the liquids taken in. He complains of a tickling cough, and flight pains in the chest; to appease which, he was ordered an oily linctus, and a warm stimulating plaster.

Pulse 68, urine more natural. Prescribed for daily consumption, one drachm of Kali-sulphuratum, in two pints of soft water. Regimen and opiate to be continued.

October 23rd. 

He was attacked with a violent colic, attended with rigor, which was succeeded by a hot fit. After clearing the stomach, he took a carminative opening mixture, which was ordered to be repeated, with or without an opiate, according to circumstances.

He soon obtained relief, but has suffered, every other, or third day, in a slight degree, from griping pains in his bowels, which have been always mitigated by the carminative mixture. The disorder in his bowels has generally come on after a full meal.

The quantities of urine and drink, have born nearly a relative proportion to each other-; nine pints and a half form the highest, and seven pints and a half, the lowest amount of urine in twenty-four hours.

October 27th

An augmentation was noticed of nearly two pints in the quantity of urine, compared with that of the preceding twenty-four hours. On being interrogated by the House-Surgeon, who suspected some irregularity on account of the change which had taken place, both in the quantity, and sensible qualities of the urine, the patient freely confessed, that he had seized an opportunity to indulge privately in bread and cheese for supper. He has been admonished of his faults and seems determined to act with more discretion) in future.

October 31st — November 12th,

November 9th.

Pulse 76. Obtained, by evaporating one pound of urine, an ounce and five drachms of a thick residuum, of a mixed saccharine and urinary taste and smell; but the latter rather predominated.

The register affords nearly the same result as the last report, except that within the last four days the urine and drink have diminished to seven pints and a half; but the latter is still rather sweet. He gains but little strength and flesh, and complains of weariness and general debility. On the 2d. he began to take a bolus, composed of half a drachm of Kali sulphuratum, and ginger, thrice in the day ; and as he suffered from pain in the lumbar region, blisters were applied over each kidney, and the blistered parts ordered to be kept open. This plan was continued till the 10th. when, on account of the nausea excited by the Kali sulphuratum, and the stationary point of debility, at which the patient remained, notwithstanding the removal of the most formidable of the diabetic symptoms, an infusion of bark in lime water was substituted for the solution, and alum and gum kino were added to his opiate at bed time.

November 12th —20th.

 The urine is scarcely, if at all, sweet; and has varied little since the I2th, either in quality, or quantity. The average amount may be reckoned at eight pints each twenty-four hours. His appetite is fickle, and for the most part puny; the clamminess and sour taste in the mouth have disappeared; the patient has been allowed a small portion of toasted bread at his dinner, without any increase of the diabetic symptoms. He has for two or three days past complained of a fixed dull pain in the back, underneath the right shoulder-blade, to which a warm plaster was applied.

November 20th – December 10th.

Continued the medicines, and the regimen. The pain under the shoulder, having gradually increased, and a tumor appearing; surgical aid was requested. The Surgeon gave it as his opinion, that an abscess was forming, and treated the patient accordingly. The urine has remained stationary in quantity and quality. He has been troubled with flying pains in his knees and ankles ; for the relief of which, a stimulant liniment was ordered. On the 9th, he had transient chills and flushings, with a regular febrile paroxysm in the evening, which, together with the increased size of the tumor, sufficiently indicated the formation of matter. Under these circumstances, it was thought necessary to change his diet; milk was allowed for breakfast, and supper, and the common broths of the house, with animal food at dinner. The bark, and anodyne to be continued.

December 12th — January 1st. 1801

The symptoms have been nearly stationary within this period. The discharge of urine has been reduced, at times, to five pints within twenty four hours, but the average quantity may be reckoned at seven pints. It is improved, both in natural colour, and smell; but the patient says it has acquired a sweeter taste, since vegetable diet was entered upon. The tumor, having pointed outwards, was opened by the Surgeon, and discharged a considerable quantity of laudable pus. The bark, with Vitriolic acid, and a mixture of vegetable, with animal food were continued.

Pulse 80, soft and regular. His countenance, and general appearance, rather improved; notwithstanding the discharge from the abscess was considerable. The excoriation, and swelling of the prepuce, are nearly gone, and the pain in his loins, and sense of internal heat, are very little troublesome. He does not appear to have gained flesh ; but his spirits are good, and he expresses a full confidence of his recovery.

January 1st — February 1st. 1801

The report of this month has varied more than the last. The register points out as much as eleven pints of urine, in twenty four hours; and the average quantity may be estimated at eight pints.

The abscess is not yet healed, but the discharge daily decreases. The bowels are with difficulty kept open, and his evening feverish paroxysms, attended with a short dry cough, have been constant and troublesome. Ordered to wear a flannel waistcoat, and to take opiates, with mucilaginous pectorals. The other medicines to be continued. On the 18th, one pint of urine afforded one ounce and six drachms of an extract, nearly resembling the last; except that there was rather more sweetness, both to the smell and taste. His diet was again ordered to be restricted to animal food; but this was found difficult to accomplish, not only on account of the patient haying been for some time past indulged in the agreeable article of vegetable diet, but also from the persuasion he entertained of his being already cured of his ordinal disorder.

February 1st. — 16th. The patient has remained nearly stationary. His urine is natural, in appearance and smell, though (in his own opinion) rather sweet: The average quantity amounts to nine pints in a day/ yet his thirst, heat, and dyspepsia are all abated. His strength is certainly increasing, the skin feels more soft and natural, and his visage is less sallow and dejected. The cough is troublesome occasionally, but without any fixed pain in the side, or purulent expectoration; yet, notwithstanding these favorable changes, his bulk is little, if any increased. His impatience to quit the infirmary, in order to complete (what he considers to be) his cure, among his friends in the country: and his increasing aversion to any restriction of diet, have led to a compliance with his wishes; and he was accordingly discharged, relieved, on February the 16th.

Remarks.

This appears to be a decisive and aggravated instance of diabetes mellitus. The sweet taste and smell, and profuse discharge of the urine, thirst, dry skin, voracious appetite, and wasting of the body, with hectic fever, (all which symptoms were apparent in this patient's case) are sufficient indications of the nature of the disease. An indulgence in spirituous liquors, and exposure to hard fare, cold and moisture, seem to have operated as remote causes in the production both of Piggin's and Kay's disorder. The efficacy of animal diet, in mitigating the patient's diabetic symptoms, is sufficiently evident; and it is probable, if this case had not been complicated with a pulmonic affection, and the formation of a large abscess under the shoulder, that its termination would have been successful. For the hectic fever arising from these latter causes, contributed greatly to the patient's extreme emaciation and exhausted strength. It may therefore be presumed that the slight remains of the diabetic affection would have given way ; provided the patient had strictly persisted in his regimen and diet. Indeed the changes which so remarkably followed every irregularity in the plan of abstinence from vegetable food ( especially in the first stages of the treatment of the disorder) sufficiently point out the necessity of a strict adherence to this essential part of the method of cure. The quantity of solid matter carried off by this patient's urine is very extraordinary. It amounted, in the first experiment, to two ounces and thirty grains, troy weight, from one pint (wine measure) of the fluid. This is nearly the largest quantity ever before collected by a similar experiment on diabetic urine; at least in all the cases hitherto published, which have come to my knowledge, there is but one instance of more than two ounces of extractive matter having been obtained from one pint of urine ; but the medium quantity in even very aggravated cases of diabetes mellitus, may be fairly estimated at not more than ten drachms of solid extract. The gross ignorance of this patient, joined to his habit of self indulgence, rendered it highly necessary to keep a constant watch upon his conduct; but in spite of every precaution, I believe he succeeded too often latterly, in eluding the vigilance of the man-nurse, and house apothecary. He was strongly urged, and he promised a compliance with the request, to send occasional information of the state of his health; but since he left the infirmary, and went into a distant county, no account from him has been received ; and consequently the termination of his complaint, although most likely to be unfavorable, cannot be ascertained.

[Translated from French]

All Paris has recently been upset about milk made from animal brains; which does not prevent all Paris today from drinking without disgust, and without remembering its forgotten emotion, the unhealthy beverage called café au lait.

Like adulterated milk, horse flesh, at a time when butcher's meat is so expensive, is said to enter Paris fraudulently in large quantities, and is sometimes sold for beef. It is curious and useful to examine whether this flesh in fact deserves the reprobation with which it is subjected.

Let us first seek what is the primary cause of the prejudices preserved to this day against horse flesh, used as food. Keysler, in his work entitled: Antiquitates selectœ septentrionales, after having demonstrated the good qualities and excellence of this flesh, teaches it in these terms:

— " The ancient Celts, northern peoples, sacrificed horses to their gods, and as the flesh of these victims composed the principal dish of the solemn feasts which followed these sacrifices, the horror which one had of these false acts of religion spread to all that entered into them; hence the zeal of the clergy, who, to destroy the heretical custom, believed it necessary to regard horse flesh as impure, and those who used it as filthy.
" The passage from a letter addressed on this occasion by Pope Gregory III to Saint Boniface, bishop of Germany, is too remarkable not to be quoted here.
"You have shown me," said this pontiff, "that some ate wild horse, and most of them domestic horse; Do not allow this to happen henceforth, most holy brother; abolish this custom by all means possible to you, and impose on all horse-eaters a just penance. They are filthy, and their action is execrable."
"It is since that time," adds Keysler, "that our ancestors have continued to be deprived of horse flesh, and this to their great detriment, magno rei familiaris de trimento."

This shows that horse flesh was very good and much sought after in those remote times. Let us prove that it has not changed in nature, and that it suits the stomachs of our contemporaries as well as those of our ancestors.

We owe the following documents to Mr. Baron Larrey, one of the most distinguished witnesses and instruments of our ancient military glory.
"The muscular flesh of the horse, especially that of the hindquarters, can be used to make soup, especially if a certain quantity of bacon is added; it can also be used in grilling and in beef à la mode, with the appropriate seasoning.
" Liver can also be used and prepared in the same way as that of horned beasts; it is even, it seems, more delicate than that which comes from them. This dish, continues Mr. Larrey, was especially sought after by our companions in the Russian campaign, who all spoke highly of it.
"Everyone knows, moreover, that horse flesh is the principal food of the peoples of Asiatic Tartary. I myself have very often had the soldiers and wounded of our armies use it with the greatest success.

"In some of our campaigns on the Rhine, Catalonia and the Maritime Alps, I have had it given to our soldiers on several occasions; but it was especially during the siege of Alexandria, in Egypt, that this meat was used to great advantage. Not only did it preserve the life of the troops who defended this city, but it also contributed powerfully to the healing and recovery of the sick and wounded, whom we had in great numbers in the hospitals; it also contributed to the disappearance of a scorbutic epidemic (scurvy) which had seized the whole army. Regular distributions of this meat were made daily, and fortunately the number of horses was sufficient to lead the army until the time of the capitulation. These animals, of the Arab breed, were very thin, due to the shortage of fodder, but they were generally young. To answer the objections which had been made by many prominent figures in the army, and to overcome the repugnance of the soldier, I was the first to have my horses killed and to eat this meat.
"At the siege of El-Arych in Syria, after having consumed the camels that we had, to feed the sick and wounded that were left in the fort, we were obliged to resort to horse meat, which served us very well.
"At the battle of Eylau, during the first twenty-four hours, I had to feed my wounded again with horse meat prepared in soup and in beef in the fashion; but, as we did not lack seasoning objects on this occasion, the wounded hardly distinguished this meat from that of beef. We must also say that the horses that were dedicated to this use were young and in satisfactory shape.
"After the battle of Eslingen, isolated on the island of Lobau, with the greater part of the French army and about six thousand wounded (the communication bridges having been broken), we were deprived of all resources for three days. To calm, in this critical circumstance, the hunger and impatience of these unfortunates, I had them make soup with the flesh of a fairly large quantity of horses scattered on this island, and which belonged to generals and senior officers. The breastplate of the dismounted and wounded horsemen themselves served as a pot for the concoction of this meat, and instead of salt, of which we were entirely devoid, it was seasoned with gunpowder. I only took care to decant the broth by pouring it from one breastplate into another through a cloth, and after having left it to clarify by rest. All our soldiers found this meat and this broth of a very good quality. Here I also gave the example by the sacrifice of one of my horses, and I made use of this same food, with this difference that I had been able to keep some salt and a little biscuit, which I used to make soup. Marshal Masséna, commander-in-chief of these troops, was very happy to share my meal, and seemed very satisfied with it.
"Thus," says Mr. Larrey, "experience shows that the use of horse meat is very suitable for human food; it seems to me especially very nourishing, because it contains a lot of osmazome. The taste is also pleasant; only this flesh is more or less stringy, according to the leanness and age of the animal. Why, adds this famous surgeon, not take advantage for the poor class and for the prisoners, of the horses that are killed every day in Paris? "

Doctor Berthollet, nephew of the famous chemist of the same name, and who practiced medicine for a long time in Taranto (kingdom of Naples), wrote that the people of this city ate horse flesh with pleasure; that it was sold there publicly by the pound, and that the sale was always prompt. The liver was considered a delicate piece; it was prepared in the same way as that of other livestock.

Géraud, a distinguished physician of the last century, advances in a very remarkable work, "that one would derive a very great utility from horse flesh, by using it as food."... After some developments, he adds: "A considerable quantity of horse and donkey flesh stealthily enters the large cities, and especially Paris, which, after the barrier, is sold under the name of beef, veal, and this meat is given at a lower price than that under the name under which it is sold... Why should we not have butcher's stalls where this meat would be publicly sold? It would be a great resource, especially in these times, when the flesh of ordinary animals is at a price that hardly allows the unfortunate to feed themselves with it. "

Géraud attributes several illnesses of the workers to the deprivation of meat... He would prefer horse flesh for them to the viscera of animals, such as the lungs, liver, spleen, stomachs, which the tripe sellers provide them... "If the sale of horses were free," he says, "it would be better and more advantageous, because the animal would be killed while still in good health, without waiting for an illness, an accident or old age to make it perish."

Let us add to these notions that at the time of the revolution, Paris was fed largely, for the space of three months, only with horse meat, without anyone noticing it and without the slightest accident resulting from it. Mr. Huzard has the proof; no one was any more able by their position to know what was happening there in this respect.

These precious details of facts observed on a large scale, at points of the globe far removed from each other, and in completely opposite circumstances, tend to demonstrate that horse flesh can be used, without inconvenience, as food.

The food problem, at almost all times an acute one, was dealt with by the Nor'westers under two headings: the provisioning of the posts, and the provisioning of the fur brigades on the march.

The posts in the forest belt subsisted largely on fish. Often, indeed, the traders in the northern departments had no other food at all. Yet, eating nothing but fish the year around, without vegetables or even salt, they were healthier, Mackenzie avers, than the venison eaters of the west. A prodigious amount of food was required to keep an active man going on an all-fish diet. In one house at Chipewyan, five men, a woman, and three children ate between them thirty-five whitefish, weighing between five and ten pound apiece, every day. A large post would consume a thousand or more a week.

Fortunately, the lakes and streams of the Northwest were full of many kinds of fish, which were taken by both net and line in vast quantities. In the autumn, as many as 500 white-fish could be caught in a couple of hours with a scoop net from a canoe. Long mentions a catch of 18,000 pounds of whitefish netted through the ice in two months. Trout weighing up to 70 pounds were taken by the hundreds with both line and seine. Sturgeon of 150 pounds or more, Harmon says, were sometimes driven onto sand bars and shot; "We have no trouble killing any number of them we please."

Among the kinds of fish mentioned by the Nor westers were: whitefish, trout, sturgeon, pike, walleyed pike, carp, herring, sucker, fresh-water drum, smallmouthed bass, and bream. Of all these, the whitefish - fresh, frozen or dried - was considered the variety par excellence. "It is the only fish that sauce spoils," the Baron Lahontan maintained. Nicholas Garry was no less enthusiastic: "All I had heard of its excellent quality and taste fell far short of its real excellence. I should say it is the most delicate tasted fish I have ever eat." But Alexander Henry the Elder paid it perhaps the highest tribute of all: "Those who live on whitefish for months together preserve their relish to the end. This cannot be said of trout." With all this, many a gourmet will agree; still, a steady diet of even whitefish must have sated the heartiest appetite in time. The voyageur was not one to complain much; but one of his rare cries of anguish has come down to us in a trader's journal: "Toujours le poisson!"

The sturgeon season opened, with immense quantities of the great fish strung between stakes in the villages along the river. The importance of sturgeon on the Columbia Was comparable to that of buffalo on the prairies, or whitefish in the forest belt. It was the staple food of the traders: 

Our party, when all together, numbers 60 men, who consume 13 sturgeons per day, weighing from 25 to 250 pounds each. One of the largest we have seen measured to ft. 7 inches over all, the head 3 ft. 10 inches in circumference; it weighed, after the guts were out, 395 pounds.

The Nor'wester, whose Indian wife cooked for him, soon accustomed himself to the eating habits of the natives; and le could speak with equanimity, if not enthusiasm, of a meal of "five Indian dogs, bear, beaver, mountain cat, and raccoon, boiled in bear's grease and mixed with huckleberries." 

In the delicatessen department, so to speak, the Nor'wester had little to choose from, although certain luxury items did appear on his table now and then. He highly esteemed the tail of the beaver, the tongue of the buffalo, and the snout of the moose; and from the Indians he learned to relish the sweet and highly nutritious marrow in roasted buffalo bones. 

Most important of his luxuries, perhaps, was the flour he had brought all the weary miles from the Grand Portage. Sometimes he made with it a kind of thick flour-and-pemmican soup called rubbaboo. More often, he fashioned galettes, small unleavened cakes, which he baked in the ashes. When he had chicken or gull eggs, he made up a pudding of some sort, or "fritters," which were probably an approximation of our flapjacks. It can also be assumed that, without yeast, he made sourdough bread whenever his cabin was warm enough to promote its rising. And at the Grand Portage and some of the big Interior posts, he baked proper loaves of bread: there were ovens, for instance, at Rainy Lake House. On the great fete days, flour and a little sugar always accompanied rum as a special treat. 

As for fruit, the Nor'wester had none except what he could find growing wild. But these he must have enjoyed greatly; for he always has time especially Alexander Henry to pause in his journal and tell us: "We found an abundance of sand cherries, which were of an excellent favor." or, "Red raspberries are now ripe and very good . . . the panbian is fine and large, and of a beautiful red, but requires the frost to ripen it." He seems, indeed, to have had not only great quantities, but also many varieties of wild fruits and berries to eat fresh or dried, in his pemmican, or with his meat and fish. 

In addition to his regular winter provisions, each Partner was allowed certain luxuries: six pounds of tea, four of coffee, four of chocolate. Clerks received a lesser allowance, each according to his rank. The Partners also took biscuits with them, which were invariably so crumbled at the end of the trip that they had to be eaten with a spoon. 

Now and then a gourmet among them brought along a hamper of wine; and we have Duncan Cameron writing: "Invited my neighbor to dine with me and gave him good Madeira to drink" . . . and adding ruefully that his neighbor seemed to prefer rum. Alexander Henry once concocted a cordial of Jamaica rum, wild cherries and a few pounds of sugar. 

Salt, when he could get it, was used by the trader as a condiment and sometimes to preserve meat, although freezing and drying usually served the latter purpose. At every post, no effort was spared to obtain a supply from some nearby salt pit or saline spring. And so the Nor'wester and his voyageurs maintained their defenses against starvation, and sometimes even feasted on plenty. But what, one wonders, of the children, so numerous at every post? What did their Indian mothers feed them? For a long time, of course, they were nursed at the breast perhaps for two or three years, as was the custom with the tribes. But when the child was weaned, at last, his diet was one that Dr. Spock himself might have approved. As described by John Long, it included a pap made of Indian corn and milk, if it could be obtained; wild rice, pounded fine, boiled and mixed with maple sugar; and the broth of meat or fish. And Wither kind of pap, he adds, was made of a toot called toquo, which was also baked into a kind of zwichack for the infans of the posts.